Pressing the Olfactory Reset Button

Top-notch raw materials were the reserve of the industry elite — until now. Ostens is the fragrance house of Laurent Delafon and Chris Yu, who as founders of United Perfumes have worked with brands such as Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Tom Dixon and Diptyque. Together with Laboratoire Monique Remy (LMR), the premium naturals division of IFF, the brand is offering novices and connoisseurs alike the opportunity to explore raw materials in all their glorious facets and creative incarnations.

During a recent introductory masterclass at Ostens’ Marylebone boutique, attendees were immersed in the world of the glorious rose. From smelling the round and creamy santifolia to the green and spicy Damascena varieties, to explanations of extraction methods, terroir differences and sustainable production futures, no question was left unanswered.

“LMR is the Rolls Royce of natural ingredients. It is quite a revelation, when you smell an ingredient with that level of purity, it is like smelling it for the first time,” Delafon states. “By bringing the ingredient to the fore, we are hoping to press the consumer’s reset button.”

Ostens offers the raw materials in two formats, a Préparation (a singular note fragrance oil), as well as an Impression (eau de parfum), which allows a selected perfumer to interpret the raw material with complete creative freedom.

In the case of the rose, Yu and Delafon decided on a Turkish variant, the Rose Isparta. “Originally we both hated roses, it felt old-fashioned, corny and predictable,” Delafon states. “But when we discovered LMR and their amazing ingredients, we fell in love with this oil. It is very elegant, but also fresh and contains red fruit and lychee aspects.”

The perfumer chosen to transform this specimen to their own liking was none other than Dominique Ropion. His Impression layers the Rose Isparta with pink pepper, patchouli, labdanum, and cashmeran for a scent containing ample amounts of depth and richness without being overpowering. It’s an exquisite olfactive representation of a company that aims to democratise the world of fragrance for all through remarkable creations.

Aside from rose, the Préparation and Impression are also available in vetiver, cashmeran, jasmine, patchouli and cedarwood options, interpreted by renowned noses Bruno Jovanovic, Alexis Dadier, Domitille Michalon-Bertier and Sophie Labbé.

“Our ambition with Ostens was to bring those wonderful ingredients to the general public and lift the veil on the creative process of the perfumer,” Delafon explains. “It’s about beauty being recognised by everyone, not just industry professionals, and experiencing something really beautiful and special.”

View the original article here.

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