Dear Diane and Shaded Viewers,
It’s only been Richard Nicoll’s second season in the arena of menswear, but already the designer has carved out his own niche of slick urbanite dressing.
As with his offerings for womenswear, there is a geometric precision and understated elegance to his creations, but the same time Nicoll isn’t afraid to push his customer towards neon pops of colour and Pollock-esque prints — the fashion equivalent of yin and yang, if you will.
In the following interview, the ANDAM award winner talks about the shock factor of simplicity, London’s sophmore men’s fashion week and his own personal style icons.
How is this season’s inspiration, “no-wave, reduction and industrial essential”, mirrored in the tailoring, colours and textures of the collection?
I was inspired by the rebellious spirit of brutally simple, classical pieces, conservatism and youth, and shocking simplicity.
Between the paint splatter, metallic pieces and bursts of orange colour for AW13, how important do you think it is for men to venture outside of their often conservatively-styled comfort zone?
I think it’s good to offer an alternative, as men’s fashion is about conservatism mixed with more rebellious pieces.
Having debuted with the first official London menswear fashion week, what was the atmosphere like this time around?
This time it was even more successful, the line-up was strong and sexy. I think the second album syndrome could have happened, but actually I think London offered a hit second single instead.
What kind of man do you see wearing your clothes?
I think my clothes suit different types — there’s something for everyone. I think they are quite versatile in that respect.
Having originally started out as a menswear student at CSM, what are the things that you enjoy about creating menswear which you can’t find in womenswear?
I enjoy how straightforward men’s ranges are. Women’s collections are a much more complicated formula, plus I love making things that I can wear too, obviously.
Who are your own personal icons of male style?
David Byrne, Morrissey, Michael Clarke, John Waters, Juergen Teller and Nick Cave because they are all mavericks.
How have you found the transition from womenswear into this area of design?
It has been liberating, clarifying and creatively fulfilling.
In which direction do you hope to take your line in the future?
I want to keep things going in the same, but simultaneously different direction.
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